Dress for Holiday Success

Esmoquin

With the holidays quickly approaching, many of us will have parties, dinners, and other festive events on our calendars. How to dress, how to dress? Dress or pants, how much jewelry, day bag or evening clutch? Don’t stress out, sweeties, Doris’ Closet Consignment is here to help.

When dressing for an event, the question always comes to mind–how much skin to bear? We all want to look sexy and alluring, but if you have to ask if you’re showing too much skin, you probably are. If you are going to wear something low-cut that features cleavage, then cover up down below—long pants, long skirt. If you want to flash some leg, then cover up on top. A little glimpse of skin (especially after a certain age) is much sexier than too much breast or a dress cut up to your waist.

I’m often asked to interpret what is to be worn to the various functions held this time of year. I’m on pretty steady ground with cocktail parties and black tie events, but what do you wear to business casual/cocktail? I’m no help there, lovies, but let’s look at black tie, cocktail, and business casual.

I think it’s always safe for cocktail AND black tie (unless it is stipulated ultra-formal) to wear a cocktail dress (rather than a long dress). You can’t go wrong with a black dress adorned with great jewelry, a fabulous metallic that makes you shine like a star, or a jewel tone. For business casual, envision a simpler dress or a great suit or pantsuit with some shine in the lapel. Add a metallic top or a wonderful red cashmere sweater, and you are ready to roll. And if you can pull off a tuxedo, more power to you (for tall girls, this is a fabulous option, with strappy heels).

What shoes should you wear with your fancy outfit? Rule of thumb says the plainer the dress, the fancier the shoes, and vice versa. We all want to wear sexy high heels, but think beforehand about how much time you’ll be spending on your feet before investing in a sky-high pair. And don’t ever wear brand-new shoes to an event. Break them in first, or you will be sorry. A great way to dress up plain shoes is to use rhinestone or pearl shoe clips, available at many consignment and thrift stores.

When it comes to jewelry with dressy clothes, once again, the dress sets the tone. If it’s very glittery, go simple–diamond studs or pearl earrings, or gold hoops; and a simple cuff. If the dress is plain, you can rock it with a great necklace, chandelier earrings, and several bright bangles.

Charla Krupp (who wrote the fabulous “How Not to Look Old”) tells us that we are only allowed three bling points—and dresses count as two. So, if you have a bling-y dress, necklace, and earrings, you need to take one off–it’s too much. Likewise, a dramatic hairdo can count as a bling point, so if dress and hairdo are bling-y, you’re set–go with plain earrings and let yourself shine!

For the bag question, you always want to select an evening bag when going to black tie or cocktail parties. Basic black is the most versatile, but don’t overlook beaded bags or metallics. For business casual, your great day bag should suffice, unless you are looking for a bit more bling—then go for an evening bag.

Wherever you go, however you dress—have a wonderful time!

What’s in YOUR Wardrobe, Pt. 2: Hot Fun in the Summertime

These patterns work because a common color pulls them together.

Putting a summer wardrobe together is a snap–with a little planning.

For a capsule summer wardrobe, consider silk T-shirts in neutrals, with perhaps one with the color you love, whether it’s acid green or raspberry or aqua. My T-shirts are V-neck, to elongate my neck, and I have them in black, white, and cream. But if navy or camel float your boat, then go for it. I also have camisoles in black, white, and cream which I wear under sheer tops in summer, and under lower cut tops in winter.

For summer, two or three fitted jackets in neutral colors should suffice. I love linen with a hint of man-made fiber to make it less wrinkled–it’s breathable and durable, and looks so crisp in the wilting summer heat. I have jackets in cream, caramel, and black, plus one in bright green for something a bit different.

A sleeveless Little Black Dress (LBD) is a must have for summer, but if you are really loathe to wear black, then opt for navy or cream, or white if you’re brave! A black and white print dress is also a fresh option for summertime, and will take you anywhere when paired with strappy black sandals and a bright wrap.

A capsule shoe collection is tricky, because many of us love shoes and have quite a few stuffed into our closets. But what will give you the best wear? At a minimum, year round, you need a great pair of black heels, a pair of nude heels in a color close to your skin tone (it elongates your leg, darling), and a wonderful pair of ballet flats. For winter, add in a pair of knee-high boots in brown or black (or both, depending on your wardrobe color preference), and ankle boots in black or brown (once again, depending on your color preference). I also have a good pair of walking shoes (NOT big white sneakers, please), and a pair of walking sandals (NOT flip-flops, pretty please–they make you waddle when you walk, which is very unattractive from the front or the back). This, at a minimum, should suffice. More will not hurt, however.

For a capsule jewelry collection, once again, add anything you really love. But, at a minimum, you need a good watch (don’t skimp–buy the best you can, because it is a statement piece), a chunky chain necklace in gold or silver, a few chunky bangle bracelets, gold hoop earrings, and diamond stud earrings, if you can afford them. Buy the best you can afford, because these items are investment pieces that will last you a long while and add a luxe element to your look. For belts, think black, silver, and gold, which will take to any outfit.

Our final considerations for our capsule wardrobe are tights and handbags. For winter, you can’t go wrong with opaque tights in neutral colors to match your skirts; mine are in black, charcoal, navy, and brown. Good brands could last for years of wear, if you hand wash. For handbags, get one fabulous leather bag for day, a sparkly clutch to go with evening wear, and a quality tote bag to schlep your things from home to office to elsewhere. If you are a summer/winter bag person, then go for two good handbags, one for each season. But one great bag can take you from season to season to season.

Good luck with building that wardrobe. And if you need help, you know where we are.

What’s In YOUR Wardrobe 1: Winter Wonder-clothes

Chanel

A suede Chanel suit–definitely the icing on the cake!

A number of customers often express confusion about what pieces they should own to have a fashionable wardrobe. There are many books written on this subject, and many different opinions. I’ve read many of these books, from Clinton Kelly and Stacey London to Tim Gunn, and I’m going to offer a consolidated view of a capsule wardrobe.

Over the next two weeks, we’ll examine the pieces that should form the core (think of them as the cake) of your wardrobe. This is not to say that you can’t add additional pieces. However, if your budget is limited, and for long wearing and stylish appearance, core pieces in classic styles and the best fabrics you can afford are a fabulous investment that will serve you well. The great news is that many of these pieces are available at your friendly consignment shop for a fraction of the original price, if you’re patient and willing to hunt them down. Are you ready to get started? Well, let’s go!

For our ideal wardrobe, let’s look at tops first. For winter, you should have one great cardigan and one great turtleneck, preferably in two-ply cashmere. Don’t like something around your neck? Then look for a V-neck or scoop neck sweater. I have a black cardigan, black, white, and camel turtlenecks, and cashmere V-necks in red and cream. I tend to go for neutrals because I can mix and match them super easily, and add wonderful scarves and accessories.

For jackets, you should have two fitted jackets in neutral colors and one in color. I have fitted suit jackets in navy and black, and an olive green jacket, for some pizzazz. When buying your jackets, consider the skirts and trousers you have and find ones that will best complement your skin tone and preferences. Also, look for a great fitted leather jacket which will go great with jeans.

Your capsule wardrobe should contain several pairs of fitted trousers in versatile, neutral colors. Consider black and navy, of course, but don’t forget camel, chocolate, and charcoal. I tend to steer clear of white or cream trousers because I usually spill something or get the hems dirty, but if you are neat and fastidious, go for it!

Every wardrobe needs one fabulous fitted black skirt that hits mid-kneecap in the front and dips just below the knee crease in the back. Pair this with a crisp white shirt, and you will be styling. This pairing is classic and sexy, especially when you add a wonderful pair of heels and some chunky gold jewelry. No wardrobe should be without these two items.

A winter wardrobe also needs a classic trench coat in a great color, a warm woolen car coat, and a black sheath dress for special occasions. Remember, you can have other color dresses, but every woman should have an LBD.

One final winter note: buy the best jeans you can afford, in dark wash. These are a versatile element for fall, winter, spring, and the cooler days of summer, and can be dressed up and dressed down. You will need to mind the hems, depending on whether you wear heels, boots, or flats with them–that’s why you need several.

What’s On Tap For This Winter?

So, what are the fashion trends that will move us into winter? (You didn’t really think I was going to talk about beer, did you?) Let’s look into our crystal ball (aka Women’s Wear Daily) and see. First up is the menswear influence. Fashion spreads are featuring hats, men’s tailored jackets, brogues, and tuxedo shirts, as well as Chelsea and biker boots. This little bit of Y chromosome pairs up nicely with more feminine pieces such as lace and silk. Just make sure you achieve a nice balance, or you might look like you’re channeling Oscar Wilde.

Another trend we’re seeing quite a bit about is sportswear, spurred on by the ubiquitous Nike bracelet that helps you track your physical activity and achievements. Integrate your Under Armor, Nike, and Adidas pieces into your regular wardrobe–fabulous with jeans, sweaters, or some of those menswear pieces we discussed yesterday.

Metallic sheen and shine always seem to invade the fashion scene, but these items are everywhere you look this season—in trendy handbags (hello, Michael Kors! There’s a reason you are a top seller!), leather jackets, scarves and wraps; and details on shoes, sunglasses, and clutches. Go for silver or gold or bronze—and don’t mix too much.

We’re also seeing a lot of menswear’s cool little brother, the rocker style element. Boots are BIG, along with studs as accents on just about everything, dark and dramatic make-up, and frilly floral dresses matched with Doc Martens. Think rocker with a side of grunge.

A hint of lingerie is very up-to-the-minute. We’re not talking just camisoles, but kimonos and kimono jackets, smoking jackets, and shoes that resemble slippers. Keep the colors rich and deep rather than pastel and you’ve got the idea.Michael Kors Silver Handbag

Our final favorite trend is stiletto heels in knock-your-socks-off colors. Yes, we’ve seen Christian Louboutin’s heels in those fabulous nude shades, but we’re talking about scarlet, neon yellow, turquoise, and fuchsia heels to shake up neutral outfits of camel, cream, charcoal, and chocolate. The main thing is to experiment and have fun.

Your local consignment shop is a great place to find these things for less money, because everything old is eventually new again, right?

 

 

An Open Letter To Designers

English: Seattle's Macy's store.

English: Seattle’s Macy’s store. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Now that the Spring collections have been shown at Fashion Weeks in various cities around the globe, now that hearts and minds turn toward the Fall couture and Ready to Wear collections which are next up on the docket, I have a few requests to make for the clothes that will soon show up at SFA and Nordstrom, at Macy’s and Lord & Taylor, at Banana Republic and Ann Taylor, and at the hundreds of other venues that clothe the women in this fine country and others. Call it my fashion manifesto, if you will:

  • Could I please have a jacket with pockets? I am seeing so many jackets without pockets, and while the lines may look sleek and sophisticated, I’d like a bit of practicality, too. I love pockets, not for my hands–I promise!–but for a Kleenex or hankie during cold weather, or to slip a dollar or two in for my morning coffee, or even to put my bus or subway pass for easy retrieval. And while I’m on a roll, could I have pants and skirts with pockets, too?
  • Could shoes please be made with enough room to wiggle my toes rather than constrict them? I’m not talking about heel height, I’m talking about not maiming my feet by having the ball of my foot and my toes so restricted that I have cramps for the rest of the evening after removing my shoes.
  • Can we please say good-bye to jeans with tapered legs? Unless you are super-svelte, they make most women look like ice cream cones.
  • Please don’t bring midi skirts back–I saw what you’re thinking about on the spring runway, but honest to Pete, most women don’t look good in midi skirts. They look short and dumpy. Don’t do this to us again.

That’s just a few of my thoughts. Any particular pet peeves or thoughts out there that I forgot? Remember, wear what fits you and makes you look and feel good. That’s the most important fashion innovation you can adopt.

Sleepless in Seattle Over Shoes

English: Shoes in a shop

A consigner brought in a pair of SPACE Robert Clergerie Studios shoes to consign this past week. These are not just any shoes, my friends, but a pair of blunt toed, chunky heel, burgundy suede Mary Janes that buckle mid-foot, rather than on the side. They are a bit old and not quite in fashion, but I love the stylish look and fabulous quality of Robert Clergerie’s shoes, so I accepted them. And then she said the magic words: “These are the same shoes that Meg Ryan wore in “Hanging Up.'”

Meg Ryan, I thought, I loved what she wore in “Sleepless in Seattle.” I haven’t seen “Hanging Up,” but I have practically memorized “Sleepless.” And immediately I was transported to that Christmas Eve dinner with the family, where Annie (Meg Ryan) announces she is engaged to Walter. She has a beautiful long dress on, but the shoes were what caught my eye. Later, she hears Tom Hank’s character talk about his dead wife on Dr. Marsha’s radio show, and thus begins her crazy obsession to meet him. But the shoes, oh the shoes!

My visceral reaction got me thinking about the power of clothes, the hopes and fantasies that ride in something as simple as a pair of shoes. If I could wear those shoes, I could have that chic boho vibe that Meg Ryan gives off. If I buy that suit, I will look powerful and make it to the boardroom. If I wear that dress, I can have any man I want. Thus the power of clothes to inspire our dreams.

But I’m older now and I’ve learned that clothes don’t work miracles, or make the fairy tale come true (which is why I did not spend two month’s salary on a wedding gown). I know clothes have to fit me and look fabulous on me if I’m going to have any chance of  looking and feeling my best. But the idea of the fantasy, that’s what makes clothes so fun. The imagining what I’m going to do, where I’m going to go in this outfit, with that handbag, with that statement necklace around my neck. Without that little bit of spice and adventure, we might as well wear flour sacks.

So I’ll think about those Robert Clergerie shoes. Especially since they are on consignment!

Smart Shopping, Consignment Style

When you consider purchasing clothes, you want the best value for your dollar. So, it makes sense to shop consignment, where gently used or never worn clothing is available at a fraction of the original price. But, what should you buy?

When I’m shopping consignment, I look for items that “appear” expensive, because I know they will be well-made and will last. I take time to consider what makes a garment worth the space in my closet, and so should you.

First of all, when looking at a consigned garment, consider the workmanship and details. Zippers and buttons should be well positioned, patterns should meet at seams, and hems should be clean and free from spare threads. Jackets, skirts, and pants for colder months should be lined. These clues and others tell you that a garment is well made. Look at buttons—unusual buttons often signal that the maker has spent some time and money in the finish of a garment.

Another thing to consider when selecting consigned clothing is the feel of the fabric. Natural fabrics such as silk, linen, and wool last and wear well (if cared for properly). Heavier knitted garments drape well on the body. If you travel a lot, look for garments with Lycra which will travel and wear well without fear of wrinkling. Be especially vigilant for cashmere sweaters which feel fabulous against the skin and (with proper care) will last for a long time. Merino wool and cashmere blends are also great for providing warmth without a lot of bulk.

When buying clothes at consignment shops, it is important to check the care label. Look for pieces that you can hand wash or machine wash on gentle cycle. However, if the piece is a structured jacket or lined pants or skirt, if they are well made, classic pieces, they may be well worth the price of dry cleaning.

Most important when choosing clothes at your favorite consignment shop, however, is the way the garment fits and looks on you. It may be a beautiful, stylish dress or pair of pants, but if it doesn’t fit right, it’s a waste of money. Likewise, the fit may be great but the color or neckline all wrong for you. Make sure garments fit in the shoulders and waist, and that the sleeves are long enough. For pants, consider the inseam and rise. If you’re full-figured, you can’t go wrong with structured pieces to lend support.Sassy Sophisticate

Be prepared to try on a lot of clothes—if you’re trying on one item, it’s just as easy to try on ten. You won’t know how something will look until you put it on and try it out. When buying skirts and pants, sit down when you try them on to see how they look and feel. Above all, enjoy the hunt—if you don’t search, you might just miss that treasure on the rack right behind you. Happy hunting!

Fashion “Revenge” Redux

English: The famed Curtain Dress, designed by ...

So, my post yesterday got me thinking–what other current shows out there are worthy of spawning a fashion collection? After all, remember Bob Mackie‘s career taking off when Cher sported his designs on her show with Sonny and her solo show (not to mention Carol Burnett’s famous curtain dress from “Went With the Wind”)? And remember we had to run around with shoulder pads up to our ears when “Dynasty” hit the airwaves?

The shows that immediately came to my mind were “Mad Men” and “Girls.” Banana Republic did a sort-of collection a year or so ago, but I’d love to see a full-blown array of dresses, skirts, jackets, blouses, and gowns channeling Chanel, Cassini, Dior, and Givenchy–you know, the clothes that Jackie Kennedy wore with such grace and panache. And J. Crew and J. Jill could tool up clothing based on Hannah and her friends–in fact, name the styles after each of the four characters, in the same way Deborah Lippmann devised nail polish shades for each Girl.

So, what collections would you like to see spring from your television to the runway to the front window of Nordstrom? How about “Game of Thrones” resort wear? It staggers the imagination….

Threads of Feeling: The Warp and Woof of Love

An early print of the Foundling Hospital.

Ever since I opened my women’s clothing consignment shop, I have been fascinated with the history of fashion and the provenance of fabric. I love the vintage clothes that occasionally make their way onto the racks, and enjoy studying the differences between these beautifully made garments and many of today’s cheaper, shoddier clothes (which you won’t find in Doris’ Closet, by the by). I love reading about Chanel and Schiaparelli and Dior, how they started their businesses, what drove their ideas and designs. And I’m fascinated by fabric.

Imagine my delight to read in the Washington Post this past weekend of an exhibition in Williamsburg about fabric swatches. These are not just any fabric swatches, however. These scraps of fabric, ribbon, and garnishments were small mementos pinned to babies and children who were left at London’s Foundling Hospital during the 1700’s. Mothers who left their young on the hospital steps hoped to someday return and claim them; in order to do this, many would pin a small patch of fabric to the child–the samples in the exhibit include ribbons, bright materials, and embroidered cloth, emblematic of the clothing worn by the poor in Britain at this time.

Most of the clothing preserved from this time was owned by the wealthy, so a chance to see the fabrics that constituted clothing of the poor is rare. Layer on top the idea of mothers having to leave their children behind and wanting desperately to reclaim them, and this exhibit is imbued with rich historical significance. I’m hoping to make it to the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum before February 2014 to see this exhibit.  I think it is worth a pilgrimage.

Au Revoir, Lilly

The world is a little less bright now that Lilly Pulitzer has died. Her happy prints in startling shades of pink, red, green, and yellow sprung from her need to find clothes that would sustain the spills and stains from her orange juice stand. And the juice stand came about as her way to combat boredom and depression. What a woman!

Pretty soon, her friends and acquaintances and juice customers wanted to know where she had gotten her clothes, and her clothing business was born. Last year, the Pulitzer brand achieved sales of $122.6 million. Not bad for a brand born of necessity. Just seeing a piece of Lilly Pulitzer come into Doris’ Closet puts a smile on my face, whether it’s a pair of lime green and lilac pants, or a pink shift with bumblebees embroidered in mint green. It was “all about happy” with Lilly, and wearing her clothes made women feel good.Lilly Pulitzer

She will be remembered for the color and whimsy she brought to fashion. Ms. Pulitzer was a strong and independent woman, and we need more of those in fashion and in life.